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Troubleshooting


 

Flow

     

 

  

No water flow...

 

In-line Carbon Cartridge is clogged and needs to be replaced  details

Supply lines may be shut off

No hot or cold water pressure causing master mixing valve to shut off

 

Flow of water is less than desired…

a. The upstream supply valves may not be fully open.

b. The inlet supply pressure(s) may be low.

c. Limescale deposits may have accumulated in cartridge, restricting water flow.


For a copy of the full 39 page Maintenance and repair manual register here

 

Temperature

 































up to 2005
now obsolete






2005 - 2011

 



2011 -




 Will not maintain temperature - erratic...

Master valve may need servicing - replace thermal actuator inside 

Machine may have stood idle for some time and/or limescale deposits have accumulated on/around thermal actuator inside the master valve causing the actuator piston to stick or react sluggishly

  
Actuator sits inside main valve
Actuator showing limescale depositNew actuator
  

Most tap water tends to come from two main sources - surface water from lakes, streams and rivers, and groundwater.

Surface water tends to be soft, containing fewer minerals, and acidic by nature, while groundwater tends to be harder. Water suppliers sometimes blend the two and the mix could change from one day to another.

According to Waterwise, an imaginary line could be drawn from The Wash on the north-west margin of East Anglia, to the Bristol Channel, with groundwater more abundant to the south and east - except for Devon and Cornwall - and surface water to the north. 

They are also the lucky ones who don't get much limescale on their kettles and can whip up a good lather.

Understanding what causes limescale and the affects on your system click here
 


Temp valve handle setting does not agree with Temp gauge 


Calibrate Master Valve

 

Water temperature fluctuates does not reach desired temperature...

 

Check “Hot Water” source


Hot water filter dirty – replace both cartridges  details


Hot water heater is old and not maintaining temperature


The maximum temperature cannot be obtained...

a. Lime deposits may have accumulated in the hot water pipes, restricting the hot water supply.

b. The hot water supply temperature may be too low.

c. The handle rotation setting may be too low. Remove valve handle, and readjust the handle rotation stop (see the Handle Rotation Stop).

The valve opens with hot water flow rather than cold water flow...


Supply lines reversed

a. The inlet water supplies are connected to the wrong ports. Remove the valve and reinstall.


Flow of water is completely shut off...

a. The upstream supply valves may be completely closed.
b. The hot or cold water supply pressure may have failed. The valve is designed to close down upon cold water failure.
c. The check stops may be closed. Access the check stops and open by turning the adjustment screw fully counter clockwise 

For a copy of the full 39 page Maintenance and repair manual register here

 

Pressure

  

 

  Low water pressure during treatment – Check supply


Carbon filter blocked  details

System "clogged" through corrosion and/or mineral deposits

Pressure gauge has moisture/water behind glass face - Replace Gauge


Pressure gauge does not return to “0” - Re-calibrate the pressure gauge by turning small adjustment screw at the 6:00 position on the face of the gauge.

 

  

Pressure gauge stuck at right hand side (see photo illustration) - over pressure caused by

1. unregulated hot and cold water supply or 

2. incorrect use of flow control valve or

3. non dotolo speculum used

For a copy of the full 39 page Maintenance and repair manual Register here

 

Waste

  

 

  

Machine will not drain waste water completely...


Instrument not installed to proper level of the table

A blockage in the drain

Waste valve not fully open

Trap is too high - there should be minimum 200 mm distance from bottom of machine to the trap

 

UV

  
  UV “Beeps - UV Transform needs to be reset or bulb getting low instructions

UV “Beeps” after new bulb - New bulb reset needs to be done instructions

UV Canister leaks - Glass seal “O” rings not sealed/ Broken Glass sleeve

 

How do I know if the UV system is working?

All systems are equipped with ‘lamp-out’ monitors which give an audible and/or visual signal in case of lamp failure.

How much does it cost to operate UV systems?

UV systems are extremely economical to operate. A typical 2.3 m3/hr whole house UV

system operates on the same power requirements as a 40 watt light bulb!

What are the annual maintenance requirements?

UV lamps have a useful life of approximately 9000 hours which means that the lamps

require annual replacement. The UV light may offer illumination beyond 1 year, however

there will not be enough UV energy to provide adequate disinfection. Proper maintenance of

any pre-treatment is also required. The sleeve should be cleaned at least once a year.

How do I clean the quartz sleeve?

If the quartz sleeve becomes stained, remove the sleeve from the reactor chamber and

clean with a commercially available scale remover such as Lime-Away or CLR. Always use

an acid based product.

 

Timer

  

 

  Timer does not light up.. 

Faulty Electrical connection/ Faulty Transformer

 

View Tube

  

 

  View tube leaks..


Seals leaking/Broken/Cracked Tube


View tube light does not come on..


 Faulty Electrical connection/ Faulty LED Bar/ Faulty Transformer

 

 

Cleaning Hose   

  

 

 


 Cleaning hose drips..

Check Valve not shutting/3 way valve not shutting off

 

 

 

Injector

  

 

 



 Injector will not siphon...

 

Water pressure is very low

Injector has siphoned up some dirt that has clogged it or o-ring is too dirty for a water tight seal.

Disinfectant does not flow - Injector clogged




 

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